With developments since the 1970s, the term “ten-speed bike” has become outmoded. Newer incarnations of the ten-speed bicycle may have more than ten gears. The bike that Lance Armstrong rode to his seventh Tour de France victory in 2005 had twenty gears. Thus, the modern terminology tends to prefer “road bike” to refer to a bike with a 10-speed geometry. A road bike is distinguished from other kinds of bikes by its geometry, which has been engineered for speed. The “drop” handlebars, which curl lower than the seat, put the rider in a horizontal position to lower wind resistance. The skinny, slick tires minimize weight and rolling resistance. The frame is designed to reduce the weight a rider must haul uphill.
Bike Gearing and Cadence
The term “ten-speed” comes from the fact that the geared bicycles that popular in the 1970s had two chainrings in the front and five gear sprockets in the rear cassette. Two front gears times five in the back equals ten gear combinations (in theory, anyway – more on this later). To move the chain from gear to gear, road bikes have a front and rear derailleur controlled from the brake hoods. The left hand controls the front derailleur, moving the chain from one chainring to the other. The right hand controls the rear derailleur, moving the chain up and down the cassette (sprocket cluster).
The different gearing combinations allow a rider to maintain somewhat steady pressure on the pedals regardless of gradient. Pedal resistance is closely related to cadence, and you want to choose a gear that allows you to maintain a cadence of around 90 revolutions per minute per leg (rpm). A slower cadence unnecessarily fatigues muscles by pushing too hard a gear. Unless you are an expert pedaler, it is hard to control pedaling efficiency at a higher cadence in an easy gear. Maintaining 90 rpm helps keep your most energy-efficient speed over any terrain.
The gear that allows you to maintain a constant cadence shifts with the terrain, and you must shift gears with it. Most finer gear adjustments are done with the rear derailleur (controlled by the right hand). In the rear, a smaller sprocket translates into a “harder” gear. The front chainrings are the opposite from the back, with the larger ring being the “harder” one. Make larger adjustments in the front with drastic changes in gradient, like when you’re riding uphill.
Bicycle Maintenance
Proper maintenance keeps your bike working properly and saves money by increasing the life of your parts. Lubricating and cleaning your chain every 150 miles is the best thing you can do to maintain your drivetrain (chain and gears). Always lube your chain after riding in the rain. Never combine the largest front gear with the smallest back gear, or vice-versa. “Cross-chaining” as it’s called wears out the gears and chain. Instead, shift to the center of your cassette and shift to another chainring. Finally, get a tune-up at least once a year. A mechanic will tighten your cables, clean the grit out of your drivetrain, and make sure that everything runs smoothly.
With properly maintained equipment, your bike will become a mode of transportation, not just recreation. You can cover long distance on your bike, scaling hills and arriving at your destination quickly. Bikes require no gas, and you can leave an inexpensive road bike locked on the street instead of paying for parking. Get some fresh air on your ten-speed by commuting to work, and start your day in a better mood.
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